Walk through Merkez and the rock cliffs watch you from above while the riverbank drags history along behind you. You slip from one street to the next in the shadow of Ottoman houses, cross the bridge, and then can't quite decide where to go — that's just how it is here. When the past weighs this much, today is easy to forget, but evening lands somewhere regardless. Can't choose? Toss the dice and let it pick between the riverbank and the bridgehead.